![]() ![]() I'm not a fan of spending twice as much effort to make a finish look old. Every panel will likely get proper attention to both sides. Paint is currently not bad at all with only a couple very minor surface rust spots and the dullness that comes with age. Once lowered, if I don't think the length hurts it visually, I'll leave it. I originally wanted a shorty, but they are starting to look a bit toy-like to me. Likely no larger than 16s and they will have a little more sidewall than most on here are used to seeing. I'm leaning towards a decidedly truck looking setup, but something modern is not out of the question. ![]() Wheels will be sorted out once the stance is set. ![]() My daughter is most concerned with the tunes situation.I'm certain that will get worked out.Ī/C will be a must. It may get some hush matt and carpeting and will absolutely be getting 3 point belts. Interior will remain stock and is in very good condition. ![]() If that is the case, a C6 would be the easiest, but I'd hate to ignore a more modern overdrive unit. Transmission may get changed to an automatic. If it gets a 4-link, it will likely get bags or adjustable springs so it can be adjusted to haul a load if needed. I may go with a 4 link, but that is undecided. If it remains sprung with leafs, they'll at least be hung below the axle with Calvert perches. I'll sort out the bolt pattern issue either with axles or re-drilling. I'm a muscle car guy and a weenie Exploer rear end won't do. The 5/8" spacer normally put on top of the frame rails will go UNDER the rails to keep the drop to a minimum of about 4.5 inches. However.Neither I nor my daughter care for the completely slammed look. Power steering, front disks and IFS will be a single event upgrade in the form of the popular Crown Victoria front crossmember swap. Truck will remain with me when she goes off to college.then all bets are off on the motor. All of the engine stuff is last on the list simply because it currently runs great and my daughter doesnt need a tire thrashing animal. Heads may get replaced with Edelbrocks, simply because its not much more money than reworking old iron heads and ends up being a good diet plan. I have an original PI intake that will likely get used and may get topped with an FITech injection setup. It may not remain a 360 with a 2 barrel, but it will remain an FE. Very straight truck with just a couple dings in the stainless trim.Įngine will remain an FE. The cab extension collected water after the fuel filler grommet dried and allowed water in. I assume the old guy drove a lot of dirt roads in Kentucky. The supports had accumulated clay and dirt. Not the cab corner, but the flat panel that extends down behind the cab. The only rust was found in both of the lower floor support brackets and the driver's side rear lower cab. Oh, and there is amosr zero rust on this thing. It runs and drives better than you would expect for ANY 1970 vehicle. It was bought by someone that quickly ended up in cash trouble building a new house and then I stepped in.Īll I have done so far is put new tires on it, service the brakes and carb and throw new plugs and wires on it. At 82, he had now given up driving a longbed with manual steering and 3 on the tree. The original owner had it until a few months ago and kept it garaged its entire life. I responded to a classified ad on and ended up buying a 1970 lwb Ranger F100 time capsule in June, 2016. About a year ago, I started looking on Craigslist and along every backroad I found myself on. I told her it had to be a Ford and had to have an FE. My daughter Ellen is 14 years old and wants an old truck for her first vehicle. I'm into FE engines and own a 66 Cyclone GT with a 428. This is just an intro for now along with some build guidelines. ![]()
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